Coming back up the road past the Red Sea towards Amman, the wild areas give way to a slow patchwork of cultivation. The presence of humans on the landscape can be seen and felt. Orchards and ploughed furrows appear. The mountains are tough, resilient places, though, and the terrain forces the most wonderful patterning of the land into layers of terraces, groves of olives and unbeatable tracts of rocks, suitable only for goats to scour.
